Forest Openings
Openings in the forest canopy occur naturally due
to overstory tree loss from insects, fire, storms, and disease. These gaps are
generally occupied by a mixture of tree seedlings, shrubs, grasses, and/or
broadleaf plants that contribute to the diversity of the forest and provide
valuable habitat for many species of wildlife including reptiles, deer, elk,
turkeys, grouse, bats, rabbits, quail, woodcock, and a variety of songbirds. In
areas of extensive, unbroken forest cover, openings can be created and managed
to provide high quality habitat for wildlife. However, in areas where the forest
has already been extensively fragmented and existing blocks of woods are
generally less than 50 acres in size, unbroken woodlands can be more beneficial
to wildlife than openings and therefore, the creation of more openings should be
avoided.
Location of Forest Openings
Existing openings should be
identified first. Avoid creating new openings when there are already openings
present, such as log yards ("landings"), logging roads, old home
sites, old fields, and utility rights-of-way.
When creating new openings, look
for areas that are relatively flat (less than 6 percent slope). Flatter areas in
a woodland can often be found near drainages, on benches, and on ridge tops.
Sites with little slope generally have better soils, less soil erosion problems,
and more planting options than steeper sites. When openings are created near
drainages, a forested buffer should be maintained for proper streamside
management*.
Avoid sites with large trees or
with trees that may have important economic or wildlife qualities. Areas that
have been damaged from severe weather or insects should be considered first, as
well as sites where the majority of trees present are in the sapling to pole
size range (2" to 10" in diameter at breast height). It is much
cheaper, easier, and better for most wildlife to work with these types of sites
than to disturb valuable forested habitat.
Finally, if an opening is to be actively managed,
the site selected must be easily and permanently accessible with necessary
equipment. If you cant get to it, you cant manage it.
Size, Orientation, & Number
of Forest Openings
Avoid creating excessively large openings or
developing too many openings. New openings should be at least one-quarter acre,
but less than one acre in size and oriented in an east/west direction for
maximum sunlight. An opening needs to be large enough to allow adequate
sunlight, but small enough to minimize forest fragmentation, provide seclusion
for foraging wildlife, and keep costs reasonable. New openings can be irregular
in shape, but should be at least as wide as one and one-half times the height of
adjoining trees to avoid excessive shading. Several smaller openings are
preferable to one large opening. In general, no more than 6 openings per 100
acres of woodland should be created and no more than 2 acres total.
Site Preparation
When creating forest openings, a bulldozer is
typically used to clear off woody vegetation. Many woodlands have only a thin
layer of topsoil, so care should be taken to remove as little soil as possible
when clearing. Consider harvesting any marketable trees prior to clearing. As
long as there is enough sunlight, all of the vegetation does not have to be
removed. You may want to leave a few good mast (fruit edible to wildlife)
producing trees, such as white oak or red oak, or shrubs, such as flowering
dogwood, in openings. After the dozing is complete, finishing work with a disk
is usually necessary to smooth over rough sections and "work down" any
remaining small roots and stems.
Forest openings can also be manually cleared
using a chainsaw. Although this technique is more tedious, it has a less
dramatic impact on your woodland and is particularly appropriate if the site is
going to be allowed to revegetate naturally.
If undesirable vegetation such as fescue or
sericea lespedeza is present in existing openings, mowing*, herbicide treatment,
and/or tillage may be necessary to prepare the site for planting or natural
revegetation* (see Habitat How-To entitled Fescue Eradication if tall
fescue is present).
Natural Revegetation
One of the simplest methods of establishing
desirable cover in forest openings is to allow natural revegetation*. With no
active management, most forest openings in Kentucky will revegetate to a dense
mixture of blackberry, greenbrier, seedlings of light seeded or "pioneer
trees" such as yellow poplar, maple, ash, and sassafras, mixed annual
grasses, and annual broadleaf plants. Thick brushy openings provide excellent
habitat for grouse, woodcock, rabbit, and deer. Openings that are allowed to
naturally revegetate can be mowed every 3 to 4 years to maintain a dense early
succession habitat or simply allowed to regenerate into forested habitat (see Habitat
How-To entitled Forest Regeneration). On sites where natural regeneration is
marginal, planting trees and shrubs* can supplement natural revegetation.
Planting oaks, dogwood, viburnum, hawthorn, or wild plum into regenerating areas
lacking these species can enhance existing habitat.
Plantings
Forest openings that are not left to naturally
revegetate can be planted to legumes, cool season grasses, warm season grasses,
annual grains, or mixed plantings (Table 1).
Legumes*
Legumes (nitrogen-fixing plants such as clover
and annual lespedezas) provide excellent foraging areas for many wildlife
species. Legumes support high insect populations that serve as forage for a
variety of bird species. This is particularly true for the chicks of grouse,
turkey, and quail that need the high protein content found in insects for rapid
development and survival. Legumes also provide quality forage for forest
herbivores such as deer and elk.
Cool Season Grasses*
Cool season grasses actively grow during the
cooler months of the growing season, typically having peaks of growth in the
spring and fall. Many wildlife species benefit from cool season grass plantings.
They can provide quality foraging areas as well as important bugging areas for
quail, grouse, and turkey chicks. If they are not cut too frequently, these
mixtures also provide suitable nesting and other cover for a variety of animals.
Native Warm Season Grasses*
Native warm season grasses (or
"prairie grasses") actively grow during the hotter months of the
growing season when most cool season grasses are dormant. Some of these grasses
(Indiangrass, big bluestem, and little bluestem) are important components of the
native plant communities found in many naturally occurring forest openings in
Kentucky. Native warm season grasses grow in clumps and can provide excellent
nesting habitat and year-round cover for wildlife. The structure of native warm
season grass stands allows a diverse community of broadleaf plants such as
legumes and wildflowers to exist between grass clumps, which creates an ideal
environment for species such as grouse, quail, and turkey to forage and raise
young.
Annual Grains*
Wildlife depend on and prefer the
seeds, berries, and browse of native plants for winter food and cover. However,
during severe winter weather when naturally occurring food sources are covered
with ice or snow, many wildlife species benefit from standing grain. Crops to be
used should be strong stemmed and high carbohydrate seed producing species such
as grain sorghum (milo), corn, or millets. Grain plantings, with soybeans or
other legumes included will also attract insects and provide quality forage
throughout the growing season. Winter oats or wheat make good cover crops for
legume and cool season grass plantings and work particularly well as quick
inexpensive single species plantings when openings are prepared late in the
summer or during fall.
Management Considerations
Pure legume plantings should be mowed* once or
twice a year if weeds or grasses threaten to outgrow legumes. However, be aware
that cutting clover during hot, dry weather weakens the plants and may result in
a thinner stand the following year. To maintain plantings of grasses and legumes
in predominantly herbaceous habitat, small openings should be mowed annually. If
interspersed woody vegetation is desirable, mow the entire field every 5-7
years. For larger openings mowing can be done annually to 1/2 or 1/3 of the
field so the entire field will be mowed every 2 to 3 years. This provides
different levels of plant succession in close proximity while also having more
winter cover available.
In some situations, with proper care and
conditions, larger openings that have native warm season grasses can be managed
using prescribed burning* to maintain diverse herbaceous vegetation.
Herbicide treatments are also an option for
managing openings. Herbicides have been used for decades by right-of-way
managers to control woody vegetation and promote herbaceous plants (see Kentucky
Dept. of Fish and Wildlife publication Managing Rights of Way for Wildlife in
Kentucky). Herbicides are also a valuable tool for controlling undesirable
species such as tall fescue, sericea lespedeza, and Microstegium (Nepal or
willow grass) which can occupy existing openings or quickly invade new
plantings. For example, Poastβ
and/or Fusionβ herbicides can be
used to eradicate grasses from pure stands of clover.
To reduce the likelihood of failed plantings,
soil amendments* will likely be necessary for cool season grasses, legumes, and
annual grains. To determine the specific amount of lime and fertilizer needed,
soil tests are recommended. Soil tests can keep you from applying more lime or
fertilizer than is needed and therefore minimize your costs. However, in the
absence of a soil test, generally you may apply 200 pounds of 10-10-10
fertilizer and 2 tons of lime per acre with positive results. Lime and
fertilizer can be worked into the soil with a disk or drag.
The area where a forest opening and the forest
meet is called "edge" habitat. Ideally, these edges should be gradual
transitions between openings and forest habitat. Edge habitat associated with
forest openings can be enhanced by selectively removing overstory trees around
openings. This practice is called edge feathering*.
Table 1. Quick Reference Planting
Guide