Rabbit Hunting

​FREE YOUTH WEEK

Resident and nonresident youth hunters and trappers ages 15 and younger may hunt and trap small game without a hunting or trapping license for seven consecutive days starting the Saturday after Christmas.

Hunter orange clothing must be worn by all hunters during the first weekend after Christmas, as youth hunters are also permitted to hunt deer with firearms at that time.​

Youth hunters must comply with all equipment regulations and bag limits for small game when hunting or trapping. Hunter education is not required for license-exempt hunters. Adults accompanying youth hunting and trapping week do not need a license if they are not hunting/trapping.​

FALCONRY SEASON

The limit for this hunting method is two (2) of any small game or furbearer species per falconer per day, except during the fall and winter seasons when the limits are the same for other methods. Falconers must possess a falconry permit, which costs $75 and is valid for three years, as well as a valid Kentucky hunting license, unless license-exempt, and obey all applicable state and federal laws.

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HABITAT

Rabbits are known as an edge species. They are animals that are most comfortable when they can find food, cover and space, all in a reasonably small area. By hunting in areas with corners between field and forest, fence lines, and overgrown building sites, hunters will have the best opportunities for multiple rabbits.

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Rabbits use a variety of escape techniques. First, they sit very still where they think they can not be seen. When they run, they are very good at darting in and out of cover to prevent predators from having an easy meal. When running, they may include long jumps, rapid darting motion in all directions, and varied speeds.​

Rabbits typically eat as close to their hiding cover as possible. They will eat most forms of vegetation, including grasses, shoots from woody plants, buds or flowers, waste grain in fields, and the bark from trees (especially in winter when other food is snow-covered).

Hunters should not plan on ambushing rabbits on their way to the water. They retain water from their food very effectively and typically do not require a water source. They will, however, drink standing water when it is plentiful.

The thickest cover in the area is the place to hunt rabbits. Briars are particularly attractive because they prevent many predators from approaching. When there is abundant native grass growing in the thick cover, it is even better. The grass provides food, and the rabbit can hide between the tufts. In the coldest part of the winter, rabbits will use the burrow of a groundhog or other animals that dig. This allows them to hide underground where the wind is not a factor, and rabbits can conserve their energy.

Rabbits typically live their entire life in a reasonably small space, perhaps a few acres. They learn the features of their home range and will use everything within that space to their advantage for the various functions of their lives. Therefore, when you see many rabbits in a given area, and the habitat remains the same, you can be assured some will still be there the next time you hunt.​

CLEANING

Rabbits should be field dressed, especially in warmer weather. All fresh meat begins to spoil quickly and warm temperatures held by the internal organs can enhance spoilage. Most hunters that field dress their rabbits keep plastic bags in their game pouch to prevent blood stains.

​​Rabbits can be completely ​cleaned or the hunter may simply want to remove the organs. Rubber gloves are always recommended but should not be discarded in the field. To skin, slit the skin in the middle of the back, across the spine. Place fingers from both hands inside this slit and pull. Skin will come off both ends.

With a sharp knife, gently split the stomach lining. Place the point of the knife just inside this lining and open the rabbit from the rib cage to between the hind legs. Gently cut through the meat between the legs and split the pelvic bone. All internal organs can now be removed. Feet can be removed at the joints above the foot.

When hunting with dogs, ensure organs are hung in a tree, so the dogs can not reach them. This will prevent the passage of internal parasites.

​If you only removed the organs in the field, finish the job as soon as you get home. Take great care to remove all hair from the cleaned animal. Shot wounds should be carefully cleaned and badly damaged areas removed. A cut up rabbit will have four legs and two halves of the back. The back can be left whole for some recipes such as “Hasen Rucken” (back of the hare), a variation of “Hasenpfeffer.”

Whether you intend to eat your rabbit immediately or freeze it, place the pieces in ice cold salt water for at least an hour. This will remove blood from the meat and wounded areas.

To freeze your rabbit, rinse each piece again and carefully place the pieces in a plastic bag. Broken bones can cut through the plastic and leak water into the freezer. Cover all parts with water and squeeze the bag until water begins to leak out the top. This removes all air. Seal the top and place it in the freezer. Meat should be good for up to six months.​

TIPS:

Let the Dog do the Dirty Work

A good rabbit dog is worth its weight in rabbits. Cottontails tend to have a small area for escape and will return to the same general area where first jumped. A slow working dog will allow the rabbit to slowly return while the dog’s barking lets the hunter know the rabbit and dog are approaching. Hunting with a dog can best be accomplished with a shotgun, as you should expect a moving target across a small shooting area.​

Retrieve Rabbit Quickly

When you shoot a rabbit being trailed by a dog, retrieve it before the dog arrives. Dogs may maul the rabbit, which isn’t suitable for your intended meal, and the dog can ingest parasites if he does eat part of the rabbit (see cleaning).

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Walking or Stalking

Without a dog, hunters may either walk through cover, forcing the rabbits to run, or stalk quietly near the good habitat. The walking method is good with a group of hunters, taking turns walking in the thickest cover. Communication is vital to keep track of the hunter's location and to alert a fellow hunter when a rabbit is running toward him. As rabbits will be running, a shotgun is usually the firearm of choice when walking.

Stalking is often practiced when hunting alone and is very effective after a snowfall. Hunters should plan to hunt the rabbit’s home one step at a time. Study every form and search for details such as an eye or an ear. Once a rabbit is detected, stealth is essential, as it has probably been watching you for some time. Slowly bring the .22 rifle or shotgun to your shoulder and make your shot count.

Hunt Edges

Take advantage of the rabbit’s habits that allow it to escape the predators in the natural world. In all rabbit hunting situations, hunt the “edge” between heavy cover and fields offering food.

Know Your Shooting Zone

A primary lesson in hunting is to know the zone where it is safe to shoot. Better to watch a rabbit escape without a shot than to explain to a landowner why your shot rattled the side of the barn. When a rabbit is in sight, focus on the total picture rather than the target animal.​

Know Other Hunter Location

You should always know where other hunters in your party are located as you hunt. If you are hunting in suitable habitat, other hunters may be in the area. Give them space for their hunt and keep track of their location. As you talk with your own party, speak to other hunting parties, so they know where you are and where you are going.​

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RECIPES​